Atamasthana Vandana: A Sacred Journey Through the Heart of Anuradhapura – By Nadeeka – eLanka
The ancient city of Anuradhapura, once a flourishing capital of Sri Lanka and a vibrant centre of Theravāda Buddhism, holds within its walls a deep spiritual heartbeat that continues to echo through time. At the very heart of this spiritual legacy lies a profound tradition known as Atamasthana Vandana — the veneration of eight sacred sites, each bearing an intimate connection to the life of the Buddha and the spread of Buddhism in Sri Lanka.
For generations, both lay followers and ordained monks have journeyed across these revered places, not merely as tourists or sightseers, but as humble pilgrims seeking blessings, peace, and spiritual merit. The Atamasthana is more than a pilgrimage route — it is a spiritual rite of passage woven into the fabric of Sri Lankan identity.
Understanding the Atamasthana
The term “Atamasthana” comes from Sinhala, meaning “eight sacred places.” These sites are all located within the sacred city of Anuradhapura, which served as the island’s capital for over a millennium, from the 4th century BCE to the 11th century CE. Each of the eight sites is either directly associated with the life of the Buddha or significant in the early propagation of Buddhism in the country.
The Atamasthana sites are:
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Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi
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Ruwanwelisaya
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Thuparamaya
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Lovamahapaya
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Abhayagiri Dagaba
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Jetavanaramaya
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Mirisawetiya
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Lankarama
Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi – A Living Link to Enlightenment
One of the most venerated sites in the Buddhist world, the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi is not merely a tree but a living relic. This sacred fig tree was planted in 288 BCE from a sapling brought from India by Sanghamitta Theri, daughter of Emperor Ashoka, and is a direct descendant of the tree under which Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment in Bodh Gaya.
Today, it is the oldest historically documented tree in the world. Pilgrims gather beneath its ancient branches to offer flowers and prayers, light oil lamps, and recite protective verses. The air around the Bodhi Tree carries a stillness that transcends time, allowing one to reflect on impermanence and peace.
Ruwanwelisaya – The Stupa of Radiance
Ruwanwelisaya, constructed by King Dutugemunu in the 2nd century BCE, is a masterpiece of ancient Sinhalese architecture. Majestic in its proportion and elegant in form, the massive stupa is believed to enshrine the largest collection of relics of the Buddha.
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The stupa is surrounded by a stone wall adorned with hundreds of intricately carved elephant heads — a tribute to the strength and wisdom the Buddha symbolizes. On poya days, thousands of white-clad devotees gather here, engaging in meditation, chanting, and communal prayer.
Thuparamaya – The First Dagoba of Sri Lanka
This was the first dagoba constructed after the official introduction of Buddhism to Sri Lanka by Arahant Mahinda. Thuparamaya houses the right collarbone relic of the Buddha, making it one of the most sacred sites in the country.
Built by King Devanampiyatissa in the 3rd century BCE, its original structure has undergone numerous renovations, yet it retains its solemn grace. The site also features a circular arrangement of stone pillars that once supported a vatadage — a protective structure around the stupa.
Lovamahapaya – The Brazen Palace
Once a marvel of monastic architecture, Lovamahapaya (or the Brazen Palace) was a nine-story structure constructed entirely with bronze tiles on its roof, hence its name. It was built by King Dutugemunu and served as a residence for thousands of monks.
Only the stone pillars remain today, standing silently in perfect symmetry, evoking a sense of grandeur and forgotten time. Though less visited than the other sites, Lovamahapaya reminds us of the sophistication and scale of monastic life in ancient Anuradhapura.
Abhayagiri – A Centre of Learning and Practice
Abhayagiri was not just a stupa but an entire monastic complex that became a major seat of learning, rivaling Nalanda in India. Built by King Valagamba in the 1st century BCE, it was a centre of Mahayana as well as Theravāda thought and attracted scholars from across Asia.
Its vast grounds, partially restored, now offer a tranquil space for meditation and contemplation. Walking through Abhayagiri is like walking through a university of the ancient world where Buddhist philosophy once thrived.
Jetavanaramaya – The Towering Testament of Devotion
Jetavanaramaya is a colossal structure, once the tallest brick building in the world, second only to the pyramids of Egypt in volume. Built by King Mahasena in the 3rd century CE, this stupa once stood over 120 meters tall.
The bricks used to construct Jetavanaramaya number over 90 million, each one a testimony to the labor and devotion of its builders. Though weathered and partially restored, its vast silhouette still dominates the skyline, reminding visitors of the awe and power of spiritual dedication.
Mirisawetiya – A Monument of Remorse
Built by King Dutugemunu, Mirisawetiya was constructed as an act of atonement. Legend says the king once ate a meal without first offering it to the Buddha, forgetting the principle of generosity. In repentance, he built this stupa.
Today, Mirisawetiya offers a quiet space where pilgrims contemplate mindfulness, gratitude, and humility — values central to Buddhist practice.
Lankarama – The Forgotten Sanctuary
Less known but equally sacred, Lankarama was likely built by King Valagamba as a smaller sanctuary for meditation. Surrounded by a forested area and featuring an elegantly restored stupa with stone columns that hint at a former vatadage, Lankarama is peaceful, calm, and ideal for reflection.
It provides a serene conclusion to the Atamasthana circuit, reinforcing the idea that spiritual insight often arrives in moments of stillness.
The Pilgrim’s Path: More Than a Journey
For many Sri Lankans, Atamasthana Vandana is performed in a single day, often during the full moon (Poya) day, beginning early in the morning and ending at dusk. Others may choose to spread the visit over a few days, taking more time to reflect at each site.
Pilgrims dress in white, carry offerings of lotus flowers and incense, and walk barefoot from site to site. It is a deeply personal journey—one that invites humility, introspection, and gratitude.
This pilgrimage is not only a path across ancient stones but a passage through one’s own mind and heart.
Cultural and Spiritual Importance Today
Atamasthana Vandana continues to be one of the most meaningful rituals in Sri Lankan Buddhist life. It links modern-day practitioners with centuries of tradition and helps preserve the sacred geography of the island’s religious history.
Even for non-Buddhist visitors, these sites offer a unique window into a civilization shaped by compassion, discipline, and inner peace. They speak of kings who built with devotion, monks who meditated in silence, and ordinary people who found extraordinary comfort in the Dhamma.
Conclusion
The Atamasthana pilgrimage is not simply about visiting ancient temples or ticking items off a tourist checklist. It is a deeply sacred tradition, a spiritual offering, and a connection to a lineage of faith that has endured for over two thousand years.
To walk the Atamasthana is to step into a living stream of wisdom — flowing from the time of the Buddha to the present day. It is a journey of devotion, discovery, and inner peace that awaits anyone who is willing to walk it with open eyes and a sincere heart.
