{"id":102375,"date":"2022-10-22T15:34:48","date_gmt":"2022-10-22T15:34:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/?p=102375"},"modified":"2022-10-22T15:35:18","modified_gmt":"2022-10-22T15:35:18","slug":"a-weekend-with-a-family-in-sinharaja-by-siri-ipalawatte","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/a-weekend-with-a-family-in-sinharaja-by-siri-ipalawatte\/","title":{"rendered":"A weekend with a family in Sinharaja-By Siri Ipalawatte"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A weekend with a family in Sinharaja-<span style=\"color: #800080;\">By Siri Ipalawatte<\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-102376\" src=\"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Sinharaja-e1666452385962.jpg\" alt=\"Sinharaja\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #800080;\">Source:<\/span><\/strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><a style=\"color: #000000; font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https:\/\/island.lk\/a-weekend-with-a-family-in-sinharaja\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Island<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">The bus disappears around the bend, and the villagers who disembark with me shuffle off into narrow paths whilst carrying their heavy gunny sacks. Night is falling, the cicada buzz is rising, and I begin to get that panicky feeling that the city-coddled folk might experience upon finding themselves suddenly alone on the roadside in a remote village in Deniyaya with no idea where to go!Before my panic escalates, a man wearing an oversized checked shirt over a pair of faded brown shorts appears. He says his name is Palitha, and tells me to follow him on what turns out to be an ankle-jarring trek up the steep, stony tracks that make up the road to his house, my accommodation for the next two nights.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">We pass through a high corridor of stunted tea bushes and arrive at a brick building with a pitched roof of locally made tiles. This simple structure and the man who runs the place is the reason I have ended up here rather than a hotel. Sinharaja Homestay is fairly basic. Staying here saves a lot of hassle as you can arrange a rainforest walk with a certified guide who is very knowledgeable about the forest. You can enjoy home cooked food prepared by his mother and have a late-night chat with his old father. The look and feel of these places is very different from a star hotel,\u2019 a Canberra friend who stayed here last year, told me after his holiday in Sri Lanka, a delicate way of saying that guests wanting air conditioning will often find themselves presented with portable fans. \u2018Once that understanding and appreciation is there, I think visitors like going \u2018free range\u2019 and getting to know the village people. People and their way of living are at the heart of this experience.\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n<p align=\"LEFT\"><!--more--><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">Waiting outside in the cooling dusk was Palitha\u2019s father, wearing two button-down shirts, a white sarong and a woolly, handmade headscarf. His face is crinkled with old smiles. We creak up the small wooden staircase and sit on the veranda, which overlooks sweeping terraces of abandoned tea plantations edged with balustrades of bamboo and banana trees.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">Technicolor butterflies flutter by as large as \u2018dolled-up\u2019 bats. I glance toward a giant wood spider, its body the size of a blackened plum, floating in mid air. Recalling suddenly, that if it could string up a web between a jak tree and a mango tree more than five yards apart, it could just as easily pounce on my face! But Palitha\u2019s mother rescues me by offering a steaming cup of tea with pieces of Sinharaja kithul jaggery and Palitha keeps feeding me information about the forest.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83315 aligncenter lazyloaded\" src=\"http:\/\/island.lk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/fdf.jpg\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" srcset=\"http:\/\/island.lk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/fdf.jpg 600w, http:\/\/island.lk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/fdf-300x200.jpg 300w\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"399\" data-srcset=\"http:\/\/island.lk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/fdf.jpg 600w, http:\/\/island.lk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/fdf-300x200.jpg 300w\" data-src=\"http:\/\/island.lk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/fdf.jpg\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">Sinharaja Reserve covers 19,000 hectares of natural and modified forest and occupies a broad ridge at the heart of the island\u2019s wet zone. It was once a royal reserve, and some colonial records refer to it as Rajasinghe Forest. In 1840 the forest became British crown land and from that time efforts were made to preserve at least some of it. On most days the forest brings plentiful rain-clouds that replenish its deep soils and balance water resources for much of South-Western Sri Lanka. Recognising its importance to the island\u2019s ecosystem, UNESCO declared the reserve a World Heritage Site in 1989.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">I see Palitha\u2019s mother is doing her cooking in the kitchen just next to where we sit. As I zoom my eyes around the warren-like space dimly lit by a kerosene lamp, I see a jumble of warped pans and dented pots hanging from the wall. A snarl of just harvested vegetables and foraged greens blanket the small table opposite her. She moves swiftly from task to task, using simple culinary tools to chop, mix, stir, taste, and then add correct ingredients. Palitha notices my keen interest and says almost everything that went into her dishes came from their home garden. The aromas from the kitchen are intoxicating \u2013 herbal, musky, and I can think of no other adjective but \u2018fecund\u2019.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">Four of us gather round the dinner table and spoon her \u2018kitchen aromas\u2019 to our dinner plates. I look around as everyone is savouring her meal that includes dishes such as dried fish with fried onions and green chillies, dhal mixed with Maldives fish, mixed vegetables with coconut milk,\u00a0<i>ambarella<\/i>\u00a0curry and rice. I feel I have been enfolded into this beautiful and simple family.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">After dinner, the house turns quiet. With the dishes done Palitha\u2019s mother disappears back into her bedroom as Palitha, his father and I get our tea and take it out onto the front stoop. I listen to the night sounds making their way along the forest canopy as the mosquitoes begin to rise. I am enveloped in stillness. I hear silence; I make remark about this while tending to my hot tea.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">In the morning, Palitha gets behind the wheel of an old green-colored jeep. I get a closer look at it and try to figure it out. I can see that he\u2019s added a few cosmetics and some modifications, but a two-piece windshield and side-mounted seats suggest this is likely a reincarnated \u2018Willy\u2019. We are on our way! First he has to take on some extra supplies. He heads to the middle of town and parks outside a little shop. He settles on a few bakery items, cans of drinks, salt, and some ambul bananas. On the edge of the town, Palitha fills up on diesel and drives faster as the town falls away, skirting some potholes, hitting others. Soon he leaves the tarmac road altogether, taking a gravel road toward the reserve.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">He pulls over to pick up a skinny, bow legged middle-aged man carrying a shoulder bag and a long knife. The man is chewing on betel, the mild stimulant that is everywhere in rural Sri Lanka. \u2018This is Piyasena, he is going to get some\u00a0<i>thelijja<\/i>\u2019. We pass a very narrow one-lane bridge and numerous rice fields. The trees look different, taller and healthier, and we are getting closer to our destination; we walk the final four kilometres into the rainforest. Palitha takes some betel from Piyasena and begins to chew. We get a warm welcome smile from the young girl at the counter. \u2018You are the first visitors of the day! She chirps.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">After fitting ourselves with the not so fashionable but vital \u2018leech socks\u2019 generously sprinkled with salt, we are ready to set off into this magical rainforest. It is a warm and humid world where no wind penetrates and there is dense shade with moving flecks of lights. It is amazing to notice that every tree and plant has the tip of its leaf drawn out to a point in order to drain off the water rapidly. The forest floor, carpeted with leaves that fall off in never-ending rainfall the year round, opens into dark aisles, with undergrowth of tiny shrubs and tree seedlings. It is the forest of the future!<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">\u2018Look at that canopy of trees\u2019 Palitha points out to the very top of a hill, much higher than the one we are climbing. \u2018Every tree up there is specific and unique to this island. They occur in no other place in the world.\u2019 As we walk he points to one bush, and then another. \u2018There is nothing here that cannot be used for something. So much of this forest can be used for medicinal purposes. The local villagers use the woody climber \u2013\u00a0<i>venivel<\/i>\u00a0\u2013 here as aspirin. The\u00a0<i>heen bovitiya\u00a0<\/i>is used against jaundice and hepatitis.\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">He points out a paradise flycatcher, blue magpies, a crested serpent eagle, and a bee-eater. He knows how to identify them visually, but almost thirty years in the rainforest has also taught him to identify almost anything by its song.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">I see many little walking paths used by villagers. These paths are overgrown with shrubs on narrow ridges so that in some places we have to walk in single file, watching to keep strictly to the middle of the ridge. There are numerous small rocks right in the middle of the rail, but the paths have been trodden so close to the rocks that they seem friendly to Palitha. He knows the terrain so well that he doesn\u2019t need to look down as he moves. My feet have never felt rocks this hard and spiky, and my ankles give out over and over again. I have suffered a leech attack and am bleeding from my leg in various places. But I never bother to investigate what has been irritating me, until we come back to Palitha\u2019s house and grab that steaming cup of plain tea with soft brown chunks of jaggery.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">Later that evening, I sat with Palitha\u2019s father and talked on the deck overlooking the little creek. The mosquitoes have risen and then settled in for the night, but small flies are landing on every available surface as we listen to the sounds of the water below. The birds have tucked themselves into the trees for the night. Whatever is hunting in the forest is doing it silently!<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">As the sun dips behind robust tall trees, I sip my tea while Palitha\u2019s father is having a cup of\u00a0<i>polpala<\/i>. He tells me that he is 89 years old. \u2018I walk ten kilometres every day in the forest\u2019 he says. His mornings begin when he wakes up and his days end when he feels like going to sleep. He eats \u2018what he likes, twice a day: one big meal for lunch and a small portion for dinner\u2019; mostly rice, yams, fruits and vegetables and occasionally dried fish, and no meat or eggs.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">\u2018How is it\u2019 I ask carefully, \u2018to grow old in this way?\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">I am wondering if it is imprudent to discuss mortality when someone is on the edge of his, but something tells me he knows things I can\u2019t find in a book!<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"LEFT\"><span style=\"font-size: 16px; color: #000000;\">He says he spent all those years watching birds, animals, and chopping wood. He tells me when he gets stressed out he slows down. There\u2019s no need to rush about and make a mess of things. Just slow down and take long breaths. He purses his lips and sucks in a deep, fierce breath through his nose, eyes closed, belly rising. He rests his knobby, wrinkled, knowing hands on his abdomen as it lifts, and when he is quite satisfied with this, he opens his eyes and slowly, fully releases his breath.His silver white hair is alight with the last rays of sun. The creek races past us with its incessant movement against the rocks. I cannot see how any life can be fuller than his.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A weekend with a family in Sinharaja-By Siri Ipalawatte Source:Island The bus disappears around the bend, and the villagers who disembark with me shuffle off into narrow paths whilst carrying their heavy gunny sacks. Night is falling, the cicada buzz is rising, and I begin to get that panicky feeling that the city-coddled folk might [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":102376,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"aside","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[48729],"class_list":{"0":"post-102375","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-aside","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-articles","8":"tag-sinharaja-kithul-jaggery","9":"post_format-post-format-aside"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.7.1 (Yoast SEO v25.9) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>A weekend with a family in Sinharaja-By Siri Ipalawatte<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The bus disappears around the bend, and the villagers who disembark with me shuffle off into narrow paths whilst carrying their heavy gunny\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" 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