{"id":122309,"date":"2023-10-01T11:30:25","date_gmt":"2023-10-01T11:30:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/?p=122309"},"modified":"2023-10-01T11:30:50","modified_gmt":"2023-10-01T11:30:50","slug":"a-sri-lankan-baker%ca%bcs-baguette-conquers-france-by-roger-cohen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/a-sri-lankan-baker%ca%bcs-baguette-conquers-france-by-roger-cohen\/","title":{"rendered":"A Sri Lankan Baker\u02bcs Baguette Conquers France-By Roger Cohen"},"content":{"rendered":"

A Sri Lankan Baker\u02bcs Baguette Conquers France-By Roger Cohen<\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

After 17 years in France, Tharshan Selvarajah has yet to apply for citizenship. But he has made bread for President Emmanuel Macron.<\/span><\/p>\n

Sign up for The Interpreter newsletter, for Times subscribers only. Original analysis on the week\u2019s biggest global stories, from columnist Amanda Taub.<\/span><\/p>\n

Most mornings, around 6:30, Tharshan Selvarajah arrives at the \u00c9lys\u00e9e Palace, seat of the French presidency, and unloads around 30 baguettes into the security scanner.<\/span><\/p>\n

The bread that is synonymous with France is sacred, but not to the point that it can pass unverified into President Emmanuel Macron\u2019s mouth.<\/span><\/p>\n

Nor is the baguette, in its highest expression, the exclusive domain of French bakers. Mr. Selvarajah is a Sri Lankan immigrant who has lived in France for 17 years but not yet applied for French citizenship, even as his bread has reached the summit of Gallic gustatory acclaim.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

This year France marked the 30th anniversary of the \u201cGrand Prize of the Traditional French Baguette,\u201d organized by the Paris City Hall. Mr. Selvarajah, 37, an intense bearded man with a fierce work ethic, won, with his creation edging out 126 other baguettes.<\/span><\/p>\n

His prize? The honor, for the next year, of delivering those baguettes to Mr. Macron and his staff. He also received some $4,250. The baker\u2019s notoriety is now such that long lines form outside his boulangerie, Au Levain des Pyr\u00e9n\u00e9es, on the fringes of eastern Paris.<\/span><\/p>\n

One Saturday morning, Mr. Selvarajah explained what made his bread special. Seated in a nearby cafe, he held up his hands.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cGod gave us all different hands,\u201d he said.<\/span><\/p>\n

A smile broke across his face. \u201cMy mother\u2019s chicken curry and my wife\u2019s chicken curry may use the same chicken but they do not taste the same,\u201d he said. \u201cGod gave me the hands to make the best baguette in France! I am never angry with the flour as I knead the dough.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

Freshly made baguettes for sale at Mr. Selvarajah\u2019s boulangerie, Au Levain des Pyr\u00e9n\u00e9es, on the fringes of eastern Paris. Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times<\/span><\/p>\n

A \u201cbaguette de tradition,\u201d or traditional baguette, is made from flour, water, salt and yeast. Period. Sounds simple, and on one level it is. Yet so much depends on the perfect baguette and the perfect baguette is elusive.<\/span><\/p>\n

A crunchy deep golden crust must encase a fluffy, slightly salty interior, punctuated with the small air sacs, known as alveoli, that produce a mildly chewy consistency. Appearance, taste, texture and smell must find a delicate harmony.<\/span><\/p>\n

This requires hard work. Mr. Selvarajah was a little irritated because his store assistants had not appeared. Always, he said, there\u2019s some excuse. He works six days a week, up to 10 hours a day, and thinks such industry \u2014 typical of immigrants trying to get a toehold in a new land \u2014 may explain why several winners of the baguette prize over the past decade have been of Tunisian or Senegalese descent.<\/span><\/p>\n

The competition itself is anonymous. \u201cBaguettes are\u00a0 numbered\u00a0 after\u00a0 being\u00a0 deposited\u00a0 by\u00a0 candidates, then touched, smelled and tasted by a jury of experts,\u201d Olivia Polski, the senior City Hall official who oversees the contest, said in an emailed response to questions. The best baguette, she suggested, should be \u201cwell-baked, light and airy. It should crackle in the mouth.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

A \u201cbaguette de tradition,\u201d or traditional baguette, is made from flour, water, salt and yeast. Period. Sounds simple, and on one level it is. Yet so much depends on the perfect baguette and the perfect baguette is elusive.<\/span><\/p>\n

A crunchy deep golden crust must encase a fluffy, slightly salty interior, punctuated with the small air sacs, known as alveoli, that produce a mildly chewy consistency. Appearance, taste, texture and smell must find a delicate harmony.<\/span><\/p>\n

This requires hard work. Mr. Selvarajah was a little irritated because his store assistants had not appeared. Always, he said, there\u2019s some excuse. He works six days a week, up to 10 hours a day, and thinks such industry \u2014 typical of immigrants trying to get a toehold in a new land \u2014 may explain why several winners of the baguette prize over the past decade have been of Tunisian or Senegalese descent.<\/span><\/p>\n

The competition itself is anonymous. \u201cBaguettes are\u00a0 numbered\u00a0 after\u00a0 being\u00a0 deposited\u00a0 by\u00a0 candidates, then touched, smelled and tasted by a jury of experts,\u201d Olivia Polski, the senior City Hall official who oversees the contest, said in an emailed response to questions. The best baguette, she suggested, should be \u201cwell-baked, light and airy. It should crackle in the mouth.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Mr.<\/span><\/p>\n

Mr. Selvarajah, 37, arrived in France from Sri Lanka in 2006. \u201cI knew nothing about baguettes,\u201d Mr. Selvarajah said. Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cAnd now,\u201d he beamed, \u201cthe president of France is eating a Sri Lankan baker\u2019s baguette every morning!\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

He loves his batons of bread. They are about 25 inches long. They weigh about 10 ounces. The baguette\u2019s optimum shelf life is no more than a few hours, often necessitating return visits to the boulangerie in a single day.<\/span><\/p>\n

So it is that, around this instantly recognizable stick of bread, French life still revolves.<\/span><\/p>\n

Of course there are other fine breads, and the rhythms of life have accelerated, as elsewhere. But some things do not change. Any unctuous sauce, say for a blanquette de veau or boeuf bourguignon, must be mopped off the plate with a chunk of baguette. Not to do so would be sacrilege.<\/span><\/p>\n

No oozing Camembert or delectable cured ham can go unaccompanied by a baguette. No breakfast at a cafe counter is complete without a \u201ctartine beur\u00e9e\u201d \u2014 the divine butter of France thickly spread on strips of baguette. The fruit and tannin of a good Burgundy linger in the mouth as a baguette is chewed, finding in its texture at once crunchy and pillowy, and its mild saltiness, the perfect cradle.<\/span><\/p>\n

Mr. Selvarajah came to Paris, where a cousin and brother already lived, because he could not find work in Sri Lanka. He has taken a small apartment five minutes from the bakery so that he can keep the grueling hours of early-morning and late-afternoon shifts, while his wife and young children live in a larger apartment across town.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI had no choice,\u201d he said. \u201cI see them when I can.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

He makes two or three pilgrimages a year to Chennai in India, where he meets Sri Amma Bhagavan, a contested cult leader whose religious movement, initially called Oneness, inspires him. \u201cEveryone is so tense today and thinking about money in a selfish way,\u201d he said. \u201cHe helps me to be happy inside my heart.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Still, in his line of work, some tension is unavoidable. Mr. Selvarajah smokes. \u201cToo much stress,\u201d he said. He has a cough. \u201cIt\u2019s from the flour, 100 kilos of it every day.\u201d He is restless. \u201cYou have to prove yourself every day.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Mr.<\/span><\/p>\n

Mr. Selvarajah carrying paper bags with baguettes made for the \u00c9lys\u00e9e Palace outside his bakery in Paris, in September. Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times<\/span><\/p>\n

The baker\u2019s Sri Lankan wife, whom he married in France, has become a French citizen, and both his children are also French. Will he follow suit? \u201cMaybe one day,\u201d he said, \u201cbut right now I don\u2019t have time.\u201d His 10-year residence permit is enough.<\/span><\/p>\n

Mr. Selvarajah is, however, not altogether happy over what the prize has meant for him so far. He has not been invited to meet Mr. Macron, who had a selfie taken with some previous winners. He feels he has gotten less French media attention than others in the past.<\/span><\/p>\n

Nor was he invited to a party this month organized by the confederation of French bakers marking the anniversary of the creation of the \u201ctraditional baguette,\u201d defined with great detail in the 1993 \u201cD\u00e9cret Pain,\u201d or Bread Decree, a quintessentially French edict laying out the procedure and characteristics required to be deemed \u201ctraditional.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

The baker attributes these perceived sleights to the fact he is the first winner who is not from France or a country with a colonial connection to it. He also believes his decision not to become a French citizen is resented. \u201cIt\u2019s not pleasant, but I don\u2019t give a damn,\u201d he said.<\/span><\/p>\n

He thought for a moment. \u201cI\u2019m thinking about expanding the franchise in Dubai and Sri Lanka, promoting French baguettes made by a Sri Lankan. There are big possibilities.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Asked if the \u00c9lys\u00e9e had paid him for all the baguettes delivered, he said with a shrug: \u201cNot yet. Maybe at the end of the month.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Juliette Gu\u00e9ron-Gabrielle contributed reporting from Paris.<\/span><\/p>\n

Roger Cohen <\/strong><\/a>is the Paris bureau chief. He has worked for The Times for 33 years and has served as a foreign correspondent, foreign editor and an Opinion columnist. In 2023, he won a Pulitzer Prize and George Polk Award as part of Times teams covering the war in Ukraine. More about Roger Cohen<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A Sri Lankan Baker\u02bcs Baguette Conquers France-By Roger Cohen After 17 years in France, Tharshan Selvarajah has yet to apply for citizenship. But he has made bread for President Emmanuel Macron. Sign up for The Interpreter newsletter, for Times subscribers only. Original analysis on the week\u2019s biggest global stories, from columnist Amanda Taub. Most mornings, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":122310,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"aside","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[56120,56119],"class_list":{"0":"post-122309","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-aside","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-articles","8":"tag-roger-cohen","9":"tag-tharshan-selvarajah","10":"post_format-post-format-aside"},"yoast_head":"\nA Sri Lankan Baker\u02bcs Baguette Conquers France-By Roger Cohen<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"After 17 years in France, Tharshan Selvarajah has yet to apply for citizenship. 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