{"id":152342,"date":"2025-04-30T09:55:13","date_gmt":"2025-04-30T09:55:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/?p=152342"},"modified":"2025-04-30T09:55:13","modified_gmt":"2025-04-30T09:55:13","slug":"a-sri-lankan-feast-on-a-tropical-modernist-estate","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/a-sri-lankan-feast-on-a-tropical-modernist-estate\/","title":{"rendered":"A Sri Lankan Feast on a Tropical Modernist Estate"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

A Sri Lankan Feast on a Tropical Modernist Estate<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

The chef Cynthia Shanmugalingam cooked a meal that celebrated the country\u2019s heirloom produce and homegrown creative culture.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Guests of the chef Cynthia Shanmugalingam gathered on the red terrace of the Lunuganga Estate, the former country residence of the architect Geoffrey Bawa in Bentota, Sri Lanka.CreditCredit…Video by Pietro Lo Casto By Sophie Bew April 28, 2025<\/span><\/p>\n

In March 2021, a year into the pandemic, the British Sri Lankan chef Cynthia Shanmugalingam, now 42, was quarantining at a hotel in Ahangama, a town on Sri Lanka\u2019s southern coast. She\u2019d traveled from her home in London and was self-isolating ahead of a six-month-long stay with her parents in Nelliady, at the island\u2019s northern tip, where she was planning to write her first cookbook. Eventually, she completed a draft of \u201cRambutan,\u201d as she titled it (and as she would\u00a0later call her restaurant<\/a>\u00a0in London\u2019s Borough Market that opened in 2023). But a less expected outcome of those weeks alone was that she met her future partner, the 46-year-old entrepreneur Joe Lenora; he was based nearby and they started talking online. Last January, they returnedto Sri Lanka to get married.<\/span><\/p>\n

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For a venue, they chose Lunuganga, the former country residence of the Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa. A leader of the Tropical Modernism movement, Bawa lived and worked on the former rubber plantation, in the beach town of Bentota, for nearly 40 years before his death in 2003, when its care was taken over by a group of his close friends now known as the Geoffrey Bawa and Lunuganga Trust. Today the property \u2014 which sits on the shore of the vast Dedduwa Lake and includes 12 acres of lush gardens \u2014 operates as a 10-room hotel, although it retains the feel of a private retreat, with worn tile floors, whitewashed walls and furniture and objects from Bawa\u2019s collection. \u201cThere are different chairs and tables around the place, or in front of a vista, where [Bawa] would like to take tea or eat lunch,\u201d Shanmugalingam says. \u201cIt has an intimate, personal quality.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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A view from the entrance of the property\u2019s main house.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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Preparation for the appetizer: heirloom blue Ceylon olives with a pomelo and sour citrus acharu (a spicy pickle).Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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When Bawa bought the former rubber plantation in 1948, he hoped to create a tropical version of a European renaissance garden.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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The party began with cocktails by a butter\ufb02y-shaped pond.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

On a warm evening last month, Shanmugalingam was back at the house, this time at the invitation of the Lunuganga Trust, which had asked her to host a dinner there. It was the first in a series of collaborative events betweenthe chef and the property celebrating the region\u2019s indigenous and heirloom produce. The gathering included a mix of designers, environmentalists and self-described seed nerds, each of whom had traveled an hour and a half up the west coast from Colombo, Sri Lanka\u2019s capital. The festivities began with cocktails beside a butterfly-shaped pond, which shimmered with fireflies as the sun set over the lake, then continued with a family-style feast of lagoon prawns and crab and a jubilant cake-decorating spectacle that took place just moments before a storm rolled in. As the rain fell, the guests sought shelter and one last drink in Bawa\u2019s ocher-walled former office, where the scents of plants in the garden mingled with the wet night air. It was, Shanmugalingam says, \u201cthe most magical dinner I\u2019ve done.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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The meal was served at a long table in the property\u2019s lush garden.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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Shanmugalingam adding a \ufb02oral garnish to a dish of rare greens and rainforest \ufb01ddlehead ferns with a sesame-and-coconut sambol.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

The attendees:\u00a0<\/strong>Among the 12 guests were Lenora, the chef\u2019s husband; the author Shehan Karunatilaka, 49, and his wife, the art director and designer, Eranga Tennakoon, 36; the writer and documentary producer Amita Arudpragasam, 34; the fashion designer Amesh Wijesekera, 31; the environmental advocate Emma de Silva, 27; the artist Muvindu Binoy, 35; the fabric designer Sophia Sansoni, 24; the architect and chief curator at the Geoffrey Bawa Trust, Shayari de Silva, 36; and the horticulturist Soham Kacker, 24. \u201cWe\u2019re all quite creative,\u201d says Shanmugalingam. \u201cWe\u2019re also all thinking about how to represent Sri Lanka in our work while having an international resonance. How do we use old materials or ancient methods in a contemporary way?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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The tablescape created by Lunuganga\u2019s gardeners, featuring wood, moss, fungi, maidenhair ferns, devil\u2019s ivy and blue ironwood \ufb02owers collected on the property.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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The menu highlighted heirloom and indigenous ingredients, but in the vibrant, contemporary style of Shanmugalingam\u2019s London restaurant, Rambutan.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

The d\u00e9cor:\u00a0<\/strong>Lunuganga\u2019s gardeners dressed a long wooden table on the estate\u2019s so-called red terrace \u2014 the region\u2019s soil is rich with iron oxide, giving it a rusty hue \u2014 with elements gathered from the grounds, including moss, fungi, blue ironwood flowers and maidenhair ferns. Thilini Perera, 39, a curator at the Geoffrey Bawa Trust and a friend of Shanmugalingam\u2019s, brought ceramics from her home, including several locally made blue-and-cream plates that had belonged to her grandmother. They were laid out \u2014 alongside green-tinged Spanish water glasses from Bawa\u2019s own collection \u2014 on batik napkins and tablecloths designed by Ena de Silva, a pioneering Sri Lankan artist and friend of Bawa\u2019s who had a room at Lunuganga named after her.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Prawns from nearby Bentota bay were grilled on the terrace.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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They were served with goroka, a wild smoky and sour mangosteen.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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A crab pongal made with kiri narang rice, a tiny heirloom Sri Lankan grain that has a milky, orangelike taste.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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The meal\u2019s starters, clockwise from top left: a mussaenda leaf and pumpkin fritti with Ceylon tangerines; snake gourd with gra\ufb03ti eggplant and tomato sambol; curry leaf aioli (for the fritti); moringa leaf and foxtail millet with cashew and coconut; and bu\ufb00alo yoghurt pachadi with muskmelon and pink spring onions.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

The food:\u00a0<\/strong>To accompany the cocktails, Shanmugalingam served heirloom blue Ceylon olives from the property\u2019s garden dressed in chile, black pepper and lime. (Despite their name, the small iridescent orbsare not olives but the sour, juicy fruits of the Elaeocarpaceae plant.) She paired these with a pomelo and sour citrus acharu, a spicy pickle made with lime juice: \u201cA big kick to get things going,\u201d she says. Later the dinner table was set with platters of peppery moringa leaf and foxtail millet (a mildly nutty ancient grain) with cashew and coconut; a flowering white mussaenda leaf and pumpkin fritti with fragrant Ceylon tangerines and curry leaf aioli for dipping; local snake gourd with graffiti eggplant and red, green and yellow tomato sambol (a Sri Lankan relish); and a cooling buffalo yogurt pachadi (a dip akin to labneh) with sweet, cucumber-like muskmelon and charred pink spring onions. These were followed by a crab pongal made with kiri narang rice \u2014 a tiny Sri Lankan heirloom grain that \u201ctastes a little milky, and a little like orange,\u201d says Shanmugalingam; prawns from nearby Bentota bay that weregrilled tableside and served with goroka, a wild smoky and sour mangosteen; rare raw greens and rainforest fiddlehead ferns, which have an okra-like taste, with a sesame-and-coconut sambol; and a guava, daikon and cured lime sambol made with small pink-fleshed guavas indigenous to Sri Lanka.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Fresh watermelon juice was served alongside pineapple-and-chile margaritas.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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The pomelo and sour citrus acharu.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

The drinks:\u00a0<\/strong>At sunset, guests were offered pineapple margaritas with a chile-and-salt rim, as well as fresh watermelon juice. For dinner, Shanmugalingam had brought over three natural wines from the European supplierTutto Wines that she serves in her restaurant. They included Cantina Giardino, a bubbly white with a salty finish from a 90-year-old vineyard in Campania, Italy, and Barraco, a perfumed blend of white grillo, catarratto and zibibbo grapes from Sicily. The third wine, served at the cake table, was Tutti Frutti Ananas, a pomegranate pink mix of magrana and syrah from Roussillon, France. Together they brought a \u201ca little taste of London\u201d to the proceedings, says Shanmugalingam.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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The music:\u00a0Shanmugalingam made a laid-back playlist featuring hip-hop and Sri Lankan diaspora artists. Among the standout tracks were \u201cGood Love 2.0<\/a>\u201d by Priya Ragu, \u201cLuchini (a.k.a. This Is It)<\/a>\u201d by Camp Lo, Jai Paul\u2019s \u201cAll Night (Unfinished)<\/a>,\u201d \u201cJars of It<\/a>\u201d by Steve Lacy and \u201cVikram Vikram<\/a>\u201d by the Tamil actor and film director Kamal Haasan.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Shanmugalingam standing behind her husband and \u201ctaster in chief\u201d (as she calls him), Joe Lenora; the art director and designer Eranga Tennakoon sits to his right.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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Tennakoon, wearing a dress of her own design.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

The conversation:\u00a0<\/strong>Wijesekera described his new collection and how, in dividing his time between Berlin and Colombo, he\u2019s beginning to favor the latter, not least because of its inspiring fabrics. And Karunatilaka explained that, in the wake of his Booker Prize win in 2022, he wants to get away to the country\u2019s quiet Kurunegala hills to write again.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Shanmugalingam saying goodbye to the environmental advocate Emma de Silva, who helped source many of the meal\u2019s indigenous ingredients.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

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Dessert was a huge cake with coconut frosting that Shanmugalingam covered with rambutans, passion fruits, black mangoes and local mandarins as her guests watched.Credit…Pietro Lo Casto<\/span><\/p>\n

An entertaining tip:\u00a0<\/strong>\u201cIt\u2019s all about a big cake finale,\u201d Shanmugalingam says, referring to her towering, fluffy coconut dessert cocooned in white frosting. \u201cIt\u2019s very easy to make a cake the day before. We whipped up all the coconut cream and butter for the icing and then left it in the fridge until we were ready to go.\u201d The cake was placed on a candle-covered side table, and guests gathered around, pink wine in hand, as Shanmugalingam finished it with rambutans, passion fruits, black mangoes and sweet, fragrant local mandarins called jambu narans. \u201cIt was quite theatrical,\u201d she says. \u201cA bit like a wedding.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

Click here to receive your free copy of the eLanka Newsletter twice a week delivered directly\u00a0to\u00a0your\u00a0inbox!<\/strong><\/a><\/em><\/span><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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