{"id":57504,"date":"2021-02-02T17:33:12","date_gmt":"2021-02-02T17:33:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/?p=57504"},"modified":"2021-02-02T17:33:12","modified_gmt":"2021-02-02T17:33:12","slug":"cooking-up-a-tasty-dish-with-food-from-growing-up-days-in-galle-fort-by-adilah-ismail","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/cooking-up-a-tasty-dish-with-food-from-growing-up-days-in-galle-fort-by-adilah-ismail\/","title":{"rendered":"Cooking up a tasty dish with food from growing up days in Galle Fort-By Adilah Ismail"},"content":{"rendered":"

Cooking up a tasty dish with food from growing up days in Galle Fort-By Adilah Ismail<\/span><\/h1>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Source:Sundaytimes<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

As a young child, Fazeera Ismail\u2019s family home in Hulftsdorp was an open house, always brimming with life and with people visiting. Her father was a lawyer; his offices were in front and the family lived at the back. With an open house comes an open kitchen and often, the household would be given short notice about guests arriving for meals. If the food cooked for the day wasn\u2019t enough and there were surprise visitors, Fazeera and her siblings were gently nudged into the kitchen to whip up something to fill the food-gap.<\/span><\/p>\n

Food was a key part of their everyday routine and the family took on an all-hands-on-deck approach to cooking and food planning. At the age of 11, Fazeera was able to prepare an entire meal. There was no TV and little entertainment, the programmes on the radio at the time had no appeal to children. Helping out with the food was the only thing there was to do, she explained. Her interest in food and cooking stemmed directly from this involvement in meal planning and her time in the kitchen when she was young.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Fazeera Ismail\u2019s recipe book \u2018Enjoy\u2019 will be released in February this year and is a celebration of the cuisine of the Galle Fort Muslims. Her parents hailed from the Galle Fort and the food Fazeera grew up with and began cooking was a result of her ancestral influences.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018Enjoy\u2019 is a reminder that Sri Lankan Muslim cuisine isn\u2019t homogeneous as many believe it to be and extends far beyond familiar staples such as biriyani and wattalapam. The cuisine is a confluence of the island\u2019s history and also varies geographically. As Galle was a port city, it is also likely that visitors to the Fort left their mark on the cuisine of the Galle Fort Muslims as it stands today. Fazeera explains that for Galle Fort Muslims, the combination of dishes in \u2018menus\u2019 is sacrosanct.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Fazeera Ismail<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s like matching a saree with a blouse,\u201d smiles Fazeera Ismail over a Zoom call, explaining why the menus are important. \u201cMenus are a big thing in Galle Fort so I accentuated that,\u201d she says.<\/span><\/p>\n

What is described as a \u2018menu\u2019 are dish pairings or menu plans designed for specific meals. A\u00a0Kanawa Shoru\u00a0<\/em>(calamari rice) menu in the cookbook pairs calamari rice, fried eggplant curry, pan fried potatoes and Maldive Fish sambol for a simple, hearty lunch. The\u00a0Barnkoli badam\u00a0<\/em>menu (turkey with potato fries and nuts) takes time to prepare but combines different dishes to complement and elicit maximum flavour from each. The menu\u2019s star is a turkey simmered in its own gravy and is served by layering fried nuts, potatoes and onions to create textures within the dish. The menu pairs the turkey with ghee rice, green peas curry, pineapple curry, yoghurt sambol, Galle pickle, ghee roti and bread rolls.<\/span><\/p>\n

The book began a few years ago when she started collecting recipes and menu pairings to pass on to her family and as the project grew, her family urged her to publish it for a larger public. Fazeera, who lives in the US and worked as an educator and social worker, spent five years collecting and tweaking recipes, deciding which dishes to include.<\/span><\/p>\n

One challenge while putting the book together was to codify techniques and ingredients that were honed through instinct over decades by assessing the look and feel of a dish. While compiling the book, Fazeera also developed renewed appreciation of the remarkably sophisticated tips and tricks embedded within seemingly modest cooking techniques in her family recipes which were passed on from one generation to another. Something as simple as roasting green gram before soaking it to make a curry renders flavour and texture to a green gram curry, effortlessly elevating taste. \u201cI\u2019m amazed that all this was looked into and how they came to these conclusions. Sometimes I think about how much time they would have spent in getting all these things perfect,\u201d she says.<\/span><\/p>\n

The recipe book has basics like rice featuring all the variations of rice which star in the cuisine of Galle Fort Muslims such as\u00a0neishoru<\/em>\u00a0(ghee rice),\u00a0koppashoru<\/em>,\u00a0parippushoru<\/em>\u00a0(dhal which is cooked with the rice) and more. It also features familiar hallmarks in Galle Fort cuisine such as\u00a0France Appa<\/em>\u00a0which is a semolina and beef casserole baked in a lightly spiced, coconut custard as well as breadfruit and beef curry,\u00a0avial<\/em>\u00a0(mixed yams, spinach and dry fish curry) and other dishes. A notable feature in the cook book and its cuisine is the emphasis on the produce. \u201cWe don\u2019t use masala so much. Most people use coriander and fennel etc but we don\u2019t. We believe that the taste of the food should be prevalent and not the masala,\u201d says Fazeera.<\/span><\/p>\n

A spinach and egg curry which features in the book, Fazeera explained, was introduced to her by her husband and was a part of his family food repertoire. The book is rounded off with pickles and sambols, gravies, drinks and desserts such as\u00a0manga paal<\/em>, sago, butter fruit cream and\u00a0sanja<\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018Enjoy\u2019 is also very much a labour of love. Her dishes were tested by her daughter and daughter-in-law. If Fazeera had a doubt about a recipe, she would reach out to her sisters. Family members and friends pitched in to lend design and photography skills. Six months ago, the book which was years in the making, reached completion thanks to the pandemic forcing life to a halt.<\/span><\/p>\n

The recipe book offers substitutes for specific ingredients and clear recipes, offering a good introduction to the cuisine for anyone unfamiliar with it. \u201cI think even a perfect stranger may be able to follow the instructions and get a good dish,\u201d says Fazeera.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Nivithi Mutta Aackie (Spinach and Egg Curry)<\/span>
\nServes 4<\/span><\/p>\n
    \n
  • 1 lb fresh spinach<\/span><\/li>\n
  • \u00bd medium onion, finely sliced<\/span><\/li>\n
  • 1 green chili, finely diced<\/span><\/li>\n
  • \u00bd medium tomato, finely sliced<\/span><\/li>\n
  • 1 tsp cayenne powder<\/span><\/li>\n
  • \u00bd tsp turmeric powder<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Salt, to taste<\/span><\/li>\n
  • 3 tbsps oil<\/span><\/li>\n
  • \u00bd cup thick coconut<\/span><\/li>\n
  • milk\/coconut cream<\/span><\/li>\n
  • 4 eggs<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Wash and thoroughly dry spinach.<\/span>
    \nPlace bolded ingredients in<\/span>
    \na large frying pan.<\/span>
    \nCook over medium heat.<\/span>
    \nWhen spinach wilts and onions are<\/span>
    \npartially cooked, about 5minutes,<\/span>
    \nadd thick coconut milk\/coconut cream.<\/span>
    \nBring to a boil.<\/span>
    \nCrack one egg at a time onto spinach.<\/span>
    \nSalt, to taste.<\/span>
    \nLet eggs partially cook.<\/span>
    \nTurn off heat. Cover.<\/span>
    \nLet eggs cook on their own heat<\/span>
    \ntill yolks are firm.<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Cooking up a tasty dish with food from growing up days in Galle Fort-By Adilah Ismail Source:Sundaytimes As a young child, Fazeera Ismail\u2019s family home in Hulftsdorp was an open house, always brimming with life and with people visiting. Her father was a lawyer; his offices were in front and the family lived at the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":57505,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"aside","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[32557,32558],"class_list":{"0":"post-57504","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-aside","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-articles","8":"tag-fazeera-ismail","9":"tag-the-barnkoli-badam-menu","10":"post_format-post-format-aside"},"yoast_head":"\nCooking up a tasty dish with food from growing up days in Galle Fort-By Adilah Ismail<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"As a young child, Fazeera Ismail\u2019s family home in Hulftsdorp was an open house, always brimming with life and with people visiting.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"noindex, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" 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