{"id":58784,"date":"2021-03-01T08:27:49","date_gmt":"2021-03-01T08:27:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/?p=58784"},"modified":"2021-03-03T08:20:41","modified_gmt":"2021-03-03T08:20:41","slug":"a-journey-to-mannar-and-the-dancing-islands-2-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/a-journey-to-mannar-and-the-dancing-islands-2-2\/","title":{"rendered":"A Journey to Mannar and the \u2018Dancing Islands\u2019 -2"},"content":{"rendered":"

A Journey to Mannar and the\u00a0<\/b><\/span>\u2018Dancing Islands\u2019 – 2 – by Nimal Chandrasena\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/span><\/h1>\n

\"Nimal<\/h2>\n

Pearl Fishing<\/span><\/h2>\n

Recording my recollections and reflections about what life would have been like in Mannar, centuries ago, I digressed. My attention was drawn to perhaps the most important and interesting aspect of life in Mannar and the north-central coastline for thousands of years (I learnt that later!). It is Pearl Fishing.<\/span><\/p>\n

Pearl oysters, from whom pearls are obtained, are a group of \u2018bivalves\u2019 (type of Mollusc), mainly of the Genus <\/span>Pinctada (Familiy: Pinctodae)<\/span><\/i>; and several species, including the one common in the Gulf of Mannar: <\/span>Pinctada radiata<\/span><\/i>.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Pearls are formed when an irritant, such as a tiny stone or bit of sand gets inside the mollusc’s shell. The bivalve secretes a lustrous substance called \u2018nacre\u2019, around the object to protect its soft internal surface. As layer upon layer of nacre coats the irritant, a pearl is formed. Light that is reflected from these overlapping layers produces a characteristic iridescent luster. It is well-known that this process of building a solid pearl can take up to seven or eight years.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The most valuable pearls are perfectly symmetrical, relatively large, and are naturally produced. Historically, in the 1920s and 30s, <\/span>P. radiata<\/span><\/i> pearls from the north-western coastline of Sri Lanka were the most sought-after, as they constituted the majority of highest quality pearls available for jewellery.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Before the beginning of the 20th century, the only means of obtaining pearls was by manually gathering large numbers of pearl oysters from the ocean floor. The bivalves were then brought to the surface, opened, and the tissues searched. This was a highly wasteful process; more than a ton of bivalves may yield only a few high quality pearls.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

In some parts of Asia, pearl oysters may be found on shoals at a depth of about 2 m from the surface, but more commonly divers have to go 12 m or deeper, even up to 40 m deep to find enough pearl oysters, and these deep dives were extremely hazardous to the divers.<\/span><\/p>\n

An informative article by Boyle (2011), published in a E-News Magazine (<\/span>Himal Southasia<\/span><\/i>) discusses the pre-eminent reputation that Sri Lanka\u2019s north-western coastline enjoyed for producing the best pearls in the world.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Tennekoon (2010) also explains, at the beginning of the 19<\/span>th<\/span> century, pearl fishery was the number one revenue source of the British who needed funds to administer the Colony. This was the reason for establishing a permanent post in Arippu, and the Mannar Administrative District receiving so much attention in the 19<\/span>th<\/span> Century.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span>\"\"It appears that under the British administration of the 19<\/span>th<\/span> century, the inspector of the Pearl Banks examined the coastal stretch from Mannar to Chilaw twice a year, in order to identify the fishable oyster beds. If the pearls were sufficiently numerous, a fishery was proclaimed for the following spring, February through April.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Until 1889, the fishery headquarters were located at Silavatturai \u2013 \u2018<\/span>the port of the pearl fishery\u2019<\/span><\/i> \u2013 in normal times a lonely place just south of Arippu, on the coastline (see Figure 5). But once a fishery was established, it appears <\/span>a town arose from the windswept sands<\/span><\/i>, with official buildings and roads.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Siriwira (2011), in an article, which appeared in <\/span>Daily News<\/span><\/i> on 25 May 2011, refers to 2400 year old, ancient Greek records of pearls from the Isle of \u2018<\/span>Taprobane<\/span><\/i>\u2019, and other reliable references to Sri Lanka\u2019s pearl fishery. It appears that the Chinese traveller – Fa-Hsien, who arrived in the island in 411 A.D.; and the Arab traveller, Ibn Batuta, who visited in 1344 A.D. refer to actually seeing precious collections of pearls in the ruling King\u2019s treasury.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Records indicate that the British earned considerable revenue from pearls of Ceylon; for instance, from March 1828 to May 1837 alone, Sterling Pounds 227,131 were credited as revenue into the Ceylon Treasury on account of the pearl fishery (Siriweera, 2011)<\/span><\/p>\n

Reflecting on Mannar and Pearly Fishery, I was also reminded of another famous name, that of the British Civil Servant in \u2018Ceylon\u2019 \u2013 Leonard Woolf, of the \u2018<\/span>Village in the Jungle<\/span><\/i>\u2019 fame. Colonial records indicate that in the period 1905-1911, Woolf, then a young man of mid-20s, had spent a considerable amount of time in the Mannar and Puttlam Districts, at various times, supervising pearl-fishing communities (Ondattdje, 2005).<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Based on all of this evidence, it is clear that the Mannar Island, Mannar itself and its gentle north-western coastline that we were visiting, once brutalised by civil war, has been pivotal in our history for more than 2400 years!<\/span><\/p>\n

Malwatu Oya<\/b><\/span><\/h2>\n

The Malwatu Oya (Aruvi Aru) is the second longest river in Sri Lanka. The Chronicle refers to Malwatu Oya as Kadamba River (<\/span>Mahawamsa<\/span><\/i> VII.44) and states that one of Vijaya\u2019s ministers \u2013 Anuradha founded a village near the river and named it \u2013 Anuradhagama. It is evident that in subsequent times, Malwatu Oya would have become a direct water route from Mantota to the ancient capital Anuradhapura, and would have been used for navigation, as well as irrigation.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

The Oya is the second longest river in Sri Lanka (171 km). As it passes through two provinces in the Dry Zone of Sri Lanka (North-Central and Central Provinces), it is known to experience severe problems of overuse of water for irrigation agriculture, and depletion of its water due to seepage into ground water aquifers. Degradation of its watershed and intense competition for water resources between agriculture and environment have also led to problems, which can be particularly tense during the dry season as this river basin essentially receives water during the Maha rains (Oct\/February) with some additional rainfall during May\/June.<\/span><\/p>\n

We saw Malwatu Oya at Paraiyanalankulam (South) on our way to Mannar. At this location, there is a hanging bridge and a causeway, which is leads to the village, but is often flooded. The anicut, with relatively recent sluices, built in the early 1900s by the Irrigation Department, is used to control water flow. Both Tamil and Sinhalese fishermen from nearby villages catch fish in this section of the Oya. I am convinced that what we watched for several minutes is \u2018over-fishing\u2019.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Giant\u2019s Tank: Yodha Weva<\/b><\/span><\/h2>\n

Anyone would be impressed by the \u2018Giant\u2019s Tank\u2019 \u201cYodha Wewa\u201d in Mannar, which is one of the largest tanks in the island. History indicates that it was built by King Dhatusena (459-477 A.D.) by damming the Malwatu-Oya. The tank is fed by an ancient canal, recently restored, which carries water from the Malwatu Oya.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yoda Wewa is situated about 25 km southeast of Mannar in the semi-arid zone. A part of the tank bund is located along the Madawachchiya – Mannar Road. The water from this tank is fed to 162 smaller tanks downstream and irrigates about 11,000 hectares of paddy land. Vast acreages of paddy lands were visible as we drove along the Mannar Medawachhiya Road, some of which looked impressively productive.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The scenery changes from rice-fields fringed with coconut groves to rice-fields with Palmyrah Palms, characteristic of the northern parts of Sri Lanka. There is historical evidence that the larger area, supplied by the Yoda Weva waters, was once considered the \u2018rice bowl\u2019 of the country, a view that was not hard to believe.<\/span><\/p>\n

The canal system, which distributes the water, had been initially restored under British administration during the 1930s; and in more times. The canals had fast-moving water, when I visited, and were impressive.<\/span><\/p>\n

For almost three decades, parts of the Giant\u2019s Tank were under LTTE control and maintenance was neglected due to security reasons. The surrounding areas, which were once farmed with its water, were engulfed by the jungle. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"However, this area was liberated by the Sri Lankan Armed forces in 2008, after which the tank restoration work has begun. Once the tank is restored to carry the full volume of water, the rice production is likely to increase significantly.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

With the general reconstruction of social life in the Mannar District, which is palpably underway, perhaps rice production may once again rise to the levels that would lead to the area contributing much more to the island\u2019s economy \u2013 as in the past.<\/span><\/p>\n

The World Bank provided Rs. 385 million under its \u2018Reawakening\u2019 project to rehabilitate the \u2018Giants Tank\u2019. I am hoping that efforts would be made to once again restore irrigation to over 30,000 acres of rice-fields in the area, via the canal and smaller tanks.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Madhu Church<\/b><\/span><\/h3>\n

On our way back to Anuradhapura, we visited the ancient <\/span>Shrine of Our Lady of Madhu<\/b>, located about 25 km south-west of Mannar. The famous church is a Roman Catholic Marian Shrine with a history well over 400 years. Some Sri Lankan Catholics consider the Madhu Church as the holiest Catholic shrine in the island. It is a well known place of devotion for both Tamil and Sinhalese Catholics alike, and is also a symbol of unity also between people of different religions, including Buddhists, Hindus and Protestants.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"It is said that attendance in the August \u2018Madhu festival\u2019, at times, touched close to a million people before the outbreak of the civil war.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Situated in the heart of the conflict zone, pilgrimage to this shrine was dramatically affected in recent years with the presence of refugee camps around the shrine complex.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

For about two decades, LTTE separatists roamed freely in the area, and the Armed forced had to engage them as part of the conflict. Active de-mining was occurring in the surrounding jungles, as we drove past.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Church was in its full splendour when we visited, with more than 500 people milling around the place that morning, and also paying homage with deep devotion. Anyone would be impressed by the restoration work that had been partly carried out by the Armed Forces, and the general upkeep of the precinct, which looked serene and lush green. The Army informed us that this restoration work was \u2018<\/span>works in progress<\/span><\/i>\u2019.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

The Baobab Tree: An ancient relic<\/b><\/span><\/h2>\n

Not far from the Mannar town, we stopped at Pallimunai to see the large and ancient tree \u2013 the Baobab, a fascinating tree and a tourist attraction. The area is highly residential, and it is regrettable that the general area is poorly maintained. It seems that the Armed Forces occasionally help clean the place up. The tree is certainly centuries old, and is testament to the importance of the area, particularly during Sri Lanka\u2019s colonial past. However, the sign at the tree spells the name incorrectly, calling it \u2018Biobab\u2019, instead of Baobab!<\/span><\/p>\n

Bogoda (2010) provided some useful information. The Baobab (<\/span>Adansonia digitata<\/span><\/i> L.) is a native of the Africa, belonging to the family Bombacaceae. The name Baobab comes from the Arabic plant name Buhibab, while the generic name is after the French Botanist M. Adanson (1727-1806). It is a deciduous tree whose rounded crown is bare during the dry season. The large, dark, green leaves are like the fingers of the human hand, with 5 (seldom 7) oblong blades, hence the specific name, <\/span>digitata<\/span><\/i>.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

The Baobab\u2019s barrel-like enormous trunk tapers into branches, giving it a strange appearance; when the leaves are shed, the tree gives the impression that it had been planted upside down! The species attracted not just Botanists, but ancient travellers who appear to have taken the trees across to many other continents, possibly as gifts.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bogoda (2010) also writes that the tree is more known for its girth than height: trunks attain a diameter of 9 m, and are hollow in the centre. The bark of the Baobab is rough and grey, resembling the hide of an elephant. Hence, the tree is popularly known in Sri Lanka as the \u2018Elephant Tree\u2019 (aliya-gaha), but Tamils refer to it as \u201cPerukka\u201d. Catholics in Mannar call the Baobab the \u201cJudas Bag\u201d, because of the 30 seeds its fruit contains.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"AMonkeys love the fruit, and hence, the tree is also known as the Monkey-bread tree (Bogoda, 2010). Its large flowers are white in colour, and when open at night, they emit a scent attractive to bats which pollinate them.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The sour scent also attracts flies and nocturnal moths. The large, white, oval fruits have a dense coat of velvety hairs, but with a pleasant, slightly acidic, cool-tasting mucilaginous pulp in which seeds are buried, and each fruit hangs from a thick stalk. The seed coat is hard and drought resistant (Bogoda, 2010)<\/span><\/p>\n

A Final Word<\/b><\/span><\/h3>\n

We didn\u2019t quite get to see \u201c<\/span>Thambapanni<\/span><\/i>\u201d \u2013 the beach with brazen sand or \u201ccopper sand\u201d. The road had got washed off north of Illavankulama, on the banks of Kala Oya, on the Puttalam-Mannar coastal road. The Army Officer, who escorted us, explained that the beach at Point Kudiramalai is located inside the park boundaries of the Wilpattu National Park.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

However, I obtained the two photos from the Internet (see Plate 10 and 11 below) for my own interest. It appears that a \u2018copper-mixed ore\u2019 is prevalent in the area, and these extend to the coast. It is possible that the Vijayan immigrants may have come across these.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"A<\/span><\/p>\n

During the two days in Mannar, we learnt so much about a region of our Country that was somewhat inaccessible for about three decades, due to the conflict. The region is steeped in Sri Lanka\u2019s history and deserves special attention, now that the war is over. It is obvious that the \u2018Mannar Island\u2019, its various places of historical interest, and possibly the entire Mannar District, require a renewed and planned re-development.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Visiting Mannar and the \u2018Dancing Sands\u2019 was a delightful adventure, because we traversed land that was the first landing areas of Prince Vijaya and his men from India. We reflected on our origins – the \u2018colonising immigrants\u2019 from West Bengal, who were perhaps of \u201cupper-class\u201d descent, hence, \u201cnoblemen\u201d (Aryans? as claimed by the Sinhala elite). Their cadre likely comprised of skilled sailors; navigators; artisans; craftsmen; soldiers; and governing officials – people who could set up a regime in a new land, and govern.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Malwatu-Oya was the first most critical waterway in that distant past, from at least 400 B.C. It is probable that it was a first significant water supply that demonstrated what was possible by way of navigation and irrigation during the early settlement and evolution of irrigated agriculture in the island.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

It was evident that irrigation agriculture would have been the only way to settle the dry and partly arid region in the early centuries (up to 400 B.C.). The spread of the early settlers to find other inland areas to settle would have also logically occurred along the Oya. The Mahawamsa refers to \u201cUpatissagama\u201d, which is Tantirimale; and \u201cAnuradhapura\u201d; two areas through which Malwatu-Oya flows. These areas, founded by Vijaya\u2019s Cheif Ministers, Upatissa and Anuradha, respectively, were subsequently colonised and settled.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

It is obvious that Sri Lanka\u2019s famous hydraulic civilisation commenced in the Mannar District, and then spread to Anuradhapura. There is also no denial of the Indian influence in irrigation, to supplement flood-plain or rain-fed agriculture (as in the Gangetic plains).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Irrigation agriculture had been already in existence in ancient civilizations of Mesopotamia, Babylonia and Egypt for more than 2000 years B.C. well before Vijaya\u2019s arrival and settling in Lankadeepa. It is also true that ancient people in the middle-east were already sea-faring and travelling, as well as conquering the east, as far as India (I thought of the legacies of <\/span>Alexander The Great<\/span><\/i>, 356-323 B.C.; parallel in time with Mutasiva, 367-307 B.C.; the son of Pandukhabaya, who built Anuradhapura). This means that, perhaps, ideas of irrigated agriculture were not totally unknown to the Vijayan colonisers, and, perhaps, some clever and visionary people, at that time, master-minded the implementation of irrigation, as part of the early colonisation and settling of the island.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

An article in 2009 by Anushka Wijesingha of the Economic Affairs Division at the Sri Lanka\u2019s Peace Secretariat (Wijesingha, 2009), highlights the importance of development activities, the potential of Mannar District and also the current constraints. Nearly 20 years ago, Sri Lanka\u2019s biggest rice harvest was from the Mannar \u201crice bowl\u201d. Over 60% of Mannar\u2019s population are involved in rice cultivation. After the District was liberated from the LTTE in 2009, programmes are underway to get rice cultivation back on track in Mannar.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The \u2018<\/span>Yali Pibidemu<\/span><\/i>\u2019 project of the Ministry of Nation Building appears to be working towards increasing the rice harvest obtained from Nanatam, Adampan and Musali in the Rice Bowl area. The farmers in the area are now free to engage in their cultivation activities, as lands have been de-mined and regular livelihood activities are underway. Nearly 25,000 acres are to be cultivated under this programme, which is good news.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

The importance of Mannar Island from a national security perspective is huge, which means that the Armed Forces need to be there in strength to prevent the Tamil Nadu fishermen, smugglers and other opportunists taking advantage of a weak presence on the island. It cannot be easily forgotten that the island has had over 16 South Indian invasions in the vicinity of Mannar as historically recorded. In addition, illicit immigration has thrived around Mannar in the early 50s and 60s; smuggling of contraband\/drugs and narcotics was and still continues to be a serious threat. The LTTE used the Palk bay and Mannar bay extensively for their logistics and links with Tamil Nadu; hence, the beaches need continuous surveillance if we are to protect our sovereignty.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

During the recent near 30 years of civil war, it is plainly clear that Sri Lankans, in general, have not been able to get anywhere near some of the areas of interest in our history, such as Wilpattu or Arippu, let alone preserve our history.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

However, the \u2018winds of change\u2019 are certainly blowing in Mannar. Active reconstruction is well underway, and the Armed Forces are on alert for any mischief or ethnic conflict. We were privileged to have been briefed by Brig. Maithree Dias – the current General Officer Commanding 54 Division and the Co-ordinating Chief for the Mannar District and his Staff.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

They explained to us in some detail, the re-construction efforts championed by the Armed Forces, who lead and also go out of the way to participate in developmental activities. It appears that these efforts are being increasingly recognised and appreciated by the Mannar District community.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

No doubt (and thankfully), the Armed Forces are well entrenched in the Mannar District. For the safety and security of the area, and Sri Lanka in general, they will likely need to remain there for several decades. Security is an integral part of re-building; the Armed Forces are manifestly an essential part of the reconstruction process.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

We left with the hope that, combined with the Giant\u2019s Tank, the Malwatu Oya and its water will continue to feed and nourish the vast area of the Mannar District, and the area will once again become the most significant rice-growing region for in the country.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

We also hoped that security, infrastructure and other conditions in the District would improve over time, so that more Sri Lankans could visit and \u2018feel the pulse\u2019 of the area \u2013 where it all, presumably, began!<\/span><\/p>\n

References<\/b><\/span><\/h2>\n

AmazingSriLanka.com; <\/span>http:\/\/amazinglanka.com\/tanks\/yoda-mannar\/index.php<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Bogoda, M. (2010). Excerpt published on 6 Dec, 2010 under Travel Sri Lanka on Facebook (<\/span><\/span>http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/media\/set\/?set=a.475250334525.259289.108681379525&type=1<\/span><\/a>).<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Boyle, R. (2011). The Paars of Mannar. Article on <\/span>Himal Southasian<\/span><\/i>. <\/span>http:\/\/himalmag.com\/component\/content\/article\/3555-the-paars-of-mannar.html<\/span><\/a>.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Ondaatje, Christopher (2005). Woolf in Ceylon: An Imperial Journey in the Shadow of Leonard Wool 1904-1911. Haper Collins Publishers, London.<\/span><\/p>\n

Tennekoon, M.U.A. (2010). Arippu: The Abandoned Ancient Seaport, Ruined and Forgotten. The Island, 10 Dec 2010. <\/span>http:\/\/www.island.lk\/index.php?page_cat=article-details&page=article-details&code_title=13116<\/span><\/a><\/span> (Accessed 10 Jan 2011).\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Rodrigo, Malaka (2010). Welcome soon to Wilpattu. Article in Sunday Times, 17 Jan 2010. (<\/span><\/span>http:\/\/sundaytimes.lk\/100117\/Plus\/plus_11.html<\/span><\/a>).\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Siriweera, W.I (2011). Heritage of Sri Lanka \u2013 Pearl fisheries. Article in Daily News, 5 May 2011 (<\/span><\/span>http:\/\/www.dailynews.lk\/2011\/05\/25\/fea03.asp<\/span><\/a><\/span>)<\/span>.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Wijesingha, Anushka (2009). <\/span>Mannar – have we forgotten its potential?<\/span> Article in The Island, 11 May 2009. (<\/span><\/span>http:\/\/www.island.lk\/2009\/05\/11\/business9.html<\/span><\/a><\/span>)<\/span>.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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