{"id":89113,"date":"2022-03-26T15:22:46","date_gmt":"2022-03-26T15:22:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/?p=89113"},"modified":"2022-03-26T15:22:46","modified_gmt":"2022-03-26T15:22:46","slug":"dining-out-dhruvees-offers-welcome-upscale-spin-on-south-asian-dishes-by-peter-hum","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/websitedesigns.com.au\/elankanew\/dining-out-dhruvees-offers-welcome-upscale-spin-on-south-asian-dishes-by-peter-hum\/","title":{"rendered":"Dining Out: Dhruvees offers welcome upscale spin on South Asian dishes – by Peter Hum"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dining Out: Dhruvees offers welcome upscale spin on South Asian dishes – by Peter Hum<\/strong><\/span><\/h1>\n

Source<\/strong>:ottawacitizen.com<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

The Beechwood Avenue restaurant is the vision made real of Ottawa-based, India-born entrepreneur Donald Wingell, who worked for years as a manager at deluxe hotels in Sri Lanka, China, Indonesia and Singapore.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Dining
Samosas at Dhruvees. PHOTO BY PETER HUM \/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dhruvees<\/strong><\/span>
\n18 Beechwood Ave.,\u00a0613-744-7888,\u00a0dhruvees.com<\/a>
\n<\/span>Open:<\/strong>\u00a0Tuesday to Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., closed Monday<\/span>
\nPrices:<\/strong>\u00a0main courses between $20 and $32<\/span>
\nAccess:<\/strong>\u00a0steps and ramp to front door<\/span><\/p>\n

There are two kinds of people in the world. First, there are those who don\u2019t mind getting their hands dirty while ripping off the shells of cooked crustaceans so as to feast on their sweet, toothsome flesh, even if it means appearing embarrassingly primal in front of your sophisticated dining companions. Then there are those who would rather not.<\/span><\/p>\n

Diners from both camps should be happy at Dhruvees, which opened in early February in New Edinburgh.<\/span><\/p>\n

The curated selection of vibrant and well-crafted dishes that I\u2019ve tried there proudly represent not just India from its north to its south, but also Indonesia and Sri Lanka, from which comes an intensely gravied, but potentially messy delicacy at Dhruvees called Sri Lankan pepper crab ($32).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Dining
Sri Lankan pepper crab at Dhruvees PHOTO BY PETER HUM \/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

It\u2019s a dish that justifies wearing a bib. This week, our smiling, on-point server proactively handed out some disposable plastic shirt-shields, which, due to us being in Canada rather than Sri Lanka, had lobsters on them.<\/span><\/p>\n

Two of us tied up our bibs, and two said no thanks to them and to the crab.<\/span><\/p>\n

It was their loss. But it was well-mitigated by lamb rendang ($26), an Indonesian preparation in which fall-apart tender chunks of meat sat in their own brown and remarkable gravy that induced swooning with its play of spices and savoury depth, while prawn crackers, sambal and rice completed the offering.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Dining
Lamb rendang at Dhruvees PHOTO BY PETER HUM \/Postmedia <\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

That\u2019s not to mention the milder pleasures of minced chicken sheekh kebabs ($24) and deep-fried Sri Lankan fish cutlets ($24), both accompanied by house-made condiments (mint and tamarind chutneys, fiery sambals) that by turns soothed or jolted our taste buds.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Dining
Chicken sheekh kebab at Dhruvees PHOTO BY PETER HUM \/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The only dish that I quibbled with was the salmon tikka ($24), which I thought had emerged from Dhruvees\u2019s tandoor oven drier than I would have liked. But the salmon fan at our table had no complaints.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Dining
Salmon tikka at Dhruvees PHOTO BY PETER HUM \/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dhruvees is the vision made real of Ottawa-based, India-born entrepreneur Donald Wingell, who worked for years as a manager at deluxe hotels in Sri Lanka, China, Indonesia and Singapore.<\/span><\/p>\n

Wingell\u2019s background and postings explain the eclectic menu, the participation of chef Patrick Braggs, who has come to Ottawa from Mumbai, and the ambience of Dhruvees, which feels newer, brighter and more upscale than most Ottawa restaurants where similar dishes are served.<\/span><\/p>\n

Indeed, Dhruvees inhabits what was formerly Jaspers Sports Bar, and the new tenant has banished the sports-bar vibe with a wealth of evocative, energetic abstract paintings that Wingell commissioned and a bar that now features teas from the Dilmah Ceylon Tea Company, a Sri Lankan brand for which Dhruvees is the exclusive Canadian importer.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Dining
Dilmah tea at Dhruvees PHOTO BY PETER HUM \/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When I spoke to Wingell before his restaurant opened, he said Dhruvees would offer \u201ccasual dining with a very high-end product \u2026 Whatever I give has to be authentic, it has to be the real stuff.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

That would go especially for the Dilmah teas and also for the Sri Lankan Jaffna crabs that Wingell says he brings in from Sri Lanka, via Toronto. It may well be that crabs native to waters closer to Canada would be more meaty than their imported cousins. Still, there was no denying the heady deliciousness of crab juices sucked from the South Asian animal\u2019s appendages or the next-day treat of the leftover crab gravy that I brought home.<\/span><\/p>\n

Earlier this year, I made two solo trips at Dhruvees, when its introductory menu was in effect. During my first visit, I enjoyed lamb biryani ($26), a potently seasoned, but balanced and superior version of that sustaining rice dish, which came with a bowl of cooling raita and a bonus gravy. Lamb biryani is no longer on the menu, but goat, chicken and shrimp biryani are, as well as vegetable pulao rice.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Dining
Lamb biryani at Dhruvees PHOTO BY PETER HUM \/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Returning, I had chicken malai tikka ($24), another mellow-flavoured winner, which came, as do all of Dhruvees\u2019s tandoor-cooked dishes, with wee roasted potatoes and a slaw-like salad. It left me enough room for a bowl of warm carrot halwa ($6) that provided a properly sweet, rich finish.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Dining
Chicken malai kebabs at Dhruvees PHOTO BY PETER HUM \/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Dining
Carrot halwa at Dhruvees jpg<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dhruvees is licensed so that it can offer a few basic wines by the glass ($8-$12), by the bottle ($30-$46) and to go, as well as some beers on tap ($8.50 for 20 ounces) or in cans ($7-$9).<\/span><\/p>\n

After speaking to Wingell this week, I think of Dhruvees as a work in progress moving in the right direction.<\/span><\/p>\n

He told me his restaurant has introduced a kid\u2019s menu with milder fare for younger palates. Cocktails and spirits are debuting this week, with\u00a0a few high-end single malts on the list because \u201cthat is exactly what goes well with the cuisine,\u201d Wingell says. He looks forward to launching weekend brunches, a lunch buffet and patio dining overlooking Beechwood Avenue.<\/span><\/p>\n

In all, Wingell seems to have his eyes clearly focused on how some special dishes from the other side of the world can be prepared and hospitably served, maintaining their essential natures but for one notable exception that nods to Canadian proclivities.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe don\u2019t give bibs in Sri Lanka,\u201d he says.<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

phum@postmedia.com<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dining Out: Dhruvees offers welcome upscale spin on South Asian dishes – by Peter Hum Source:ottawacitizen.com The Beechwood Avenue restaurant is the vision made real of Ottawa-based, India-born entrepreneur Donald Wingell, who worked for years as a manager at deluxe hotels in Sri Lanka, China, Indonesia and Singapore. Dhruvees 18 Beechwood Ave.,\u00a0613-744-7888,\u00a0dhruvees.com Open:\u00a0Tuesday to Sunday […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":89123,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"aside","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[36727,42843,4592,37096,687,42844],"class_list":{"0":"post-89113","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-aside","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-articles","8":"tag-china","9":"tag-donald-wingell","10":"tag-indonesia","11":"tag-singapore","12":"tag-sri-lanka","13":"tag-sri-lankan-fish-cutlets","14":"post_format-post-format-aside"},"yoast_head":"\nDining Out: Dhruvees offers welcome upscale spin on South Asian dishes - by Peter Hum - eLanka<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The Beechwood Avenue restaurant is the vision made real of Ottawa-based, India-born entrepreneur Donald Wingell,\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"noindex, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Dining Out: Dhruvees offers welcome upscale spin on South Asian dishes - 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